If you have an email address on file, we always notify you the day before your scheduled visit so you know we will be there. Our technicians work between the hours of 7am and 5pm, so they should be there between those times. Our next visit depends upon which services you have selected for your yard. For our most popular program, the 7-treatment plan it is typically 3-4 weeks between treatments. This can vary a bit depending on weather conditions. If you are a new customer, we schedule your first application within 10 business days of signing up for service. After that, your visit schedule will depend upon the treatment plan you’ve selected, but typically every 3-4 weeks.
The products we use are specialized commercial products that are designed to target specific weeds and not harm your lawn. Because of this they do not kill the weed instantly. The product is absorbed into the plant and typically takes 7-10 days to see the effects. Some weeds are easier to kill than others. Dandelions and other broadleaf weeds are typically controlled after 1-2 treatments, and you will see them curl up and die within that 7-10-day window Some difficult to control weeds like ground ivy and wild violets will take longer (more treatments and more time) to control. Your technician will note this on your paperwork so you know this will be the case.
Crabgrass is an annual weed. Any crabgrass you see in the fall should be turning brown and dying. As the air and soil temperatures cool down any crabgrass that we did not kill during the summer should die and go away. The best way to control crabgrass is to apply a pre-emergent early in the spring before the seeds have a chance to germinate. Our Round 1 treatment includes a pre-emergent herbicide to help control crabgrass.
Our equipment uses wide, low-pressure tires to minimize any damage to your lawn. If you see tire tracks, they should go away within a day. If they last more than 24 hours your lawn could be thirsty – check to see when the last time it was watered. Check out your most recent service invoice. If there was a problem such as a lawn disease the technician would have noted it for future treatment. If there are deep ruts left in the soil from our equipment please contact our customer service department so we can come out an assess any damage and correct as needed.
Aeration pulls up plugs that are about 2-3 inches long from your lawn. These plugs of soil will break down very quickly sitting on the surface of the lawn from rain, watering, and normal mowing. You should not remove the plugs; the natural breakdown of the plugs adds nutrients back into your lawn for the upcoming season
Depending upon your soil type the soil plugs can be hard to find. Sandy soils allow the plugs to break down very quickly, almost as soon as we pull them out of the soil. If you have a thick, lush lawn that is mown high, plugs can be hidden in the grass. Check areas where there is less grass to see if you can see the plugs or holes in the lawn there.
When overseeding we do our best to keep the seeds in the lawn. We have shields on the seed spreader to keep the distribution as close as possible to the machine.
When you seed the lawn determines when the seeds will germinate. We must seed after the extreme heat of August has ended. Seeding early in the fall allows the seed to germinate and set roots yet this year. Seeding later in the season, the seeds will remain dormant in your lawn until the warm temperatures of next spring when they will begin to grow.
The granular fertilizer products we use are safe immediately after they have been put down. For liquid weed control treatments you should stay off the lawn for at least 2 hours or until the product is dry before going out on the lawn or allowing your pets outside. Once the product is dry it is safe to be on the lawn.
Late season is when we put down the winterizer fertilizer, and soil amendments if they are part of your program. The winterizer helps develop the roots for next spring and the soil amendments add needed minerals to your soil to unlock nutrients in your lawn and improve the soil for the next year.
In fall Michigan grasses go into dormancy until next spring. Depending upon the mix of grass types that you have in your lawn some areas may go into dormancy sooner than others. If there was any remaining crabgrass in your lawn it will be dying this time of year and show up as brown spots.
All our services auto-renew from year to year. We like to get out the renewal information to you early so you can review the services you had during the last season and adjust your treatment program for the coming year. An additional benefit of the auto-renew program is that we can schedule your early season pre-emergent and weed control treatments sooner. It is important to get the pre-emergent down early in the season so it can be watered into the lawn and be effective before weed seeds (primarily crabgrass) start to germinate. We also can get a head start on the dandelions,our number one weed we get called to control each year.
As long as the leaves cover less than 1/3 of your lawn, we can still put down the fertilizer treatments. We use granular fertilizer. This fertilizer will roll off the leaves, getting to the soil underneath and still be effective
Earthworms are moles main food source, and if you have a well-maintained lawn with good soil conditions you should have worms. We do not want to eliminate the worms because they are good for your soil.
We recommend that you wait 24 hours after a treatment before mowing your lawn to allow any liquid treatment to be fully absorbed, and for moisture to help the granular products get down into the soil. Always remember to keep your mower set at about 3 to 3 ½ inches when cutting the grass. And mulching your grass is better than bagging it. You return the clippings to the soil where they can add nitrogen and keep them out of the landfills.
While grubs are a food source for moles, their favorite food is earthworms. So, if you have healthy turf with lots of worms you can still have moles. If this is a serious problem in your yard we have a mole service to help provide a remedy/
Our technicians use a backpack blower that creates a mist to treat for mosquitoes. It doesn’t create a heavy “fog” that you can see clearly while they are treating your property. This mist attaches better to the foliage where mosquitoes hide during the day and helps to create a long-term barrier preventing them from laying eggs.
Taking care of your yard is important to us and we want you to be happy and satisfied with our services. If we see something that may cause problems in the future, we want to let you know about it before it becomes an issue, and we want to give you the option to correct it.
We want to make sure our treatments are as effective as possible, so we space the applications out to be the most effective and schedule them accordingly. So, you may receive multiple services due to the timing requirements of the products. Certain products like a grub preventer or lawn disease preventer all must go down at the correct time of year, which might not be the same time as your fertilizer treatment.
Lush Lawn uses a granular fertilizer that breaks down over time. This is better for your lawn in the summer months when it isn’t raining as much. The fertilizer is absorbed as it is watered into the lawn getting down into the root zone better. In the warmer months, we only spot-treat for problem weeds. This is more effective and prevents us from burning the lawn.
It’s not how long a technician is at your home that matters, but rather the care taken when applying the product that makes the difference. We use powered spreaders/sprayers that cover a larger area than a push spreader, allowing for greater efficiency. In open areas, our sprayers can cover a path over 8 feet wide at a time. Because of this, we can treat an average-sized yard in less than 10 minutes if there aren’t too many obstacles to drive around. And don’t forget we guarantee our work. If the weeds don't start to curl up in 10 days let us know and we’ll come back to retreat the area.
When spraying trees we utilize an integrated pest management technique. We carefully observe the trees’ condition and adjust the amount of product used to treat just what is needed. More product sprayed does not always equal a better result, and oftentimes can limit its effectiveness. Also, certain treatments are only used for local problems – not all trees require the same treatment at the same time.